— — brick towers the jungle gave back.
“A valley of red-brick Hindu temples built by the Cham kings between the 4th and 13th centuries, set under a ring of low forested hills west of Hội An. American bombing in 1969 took half the site; what remains is enough. Mornings before the day's tour buses arrive, the only sounds are insects and the slow drip of dew off the towers.
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Mỹ Sơn is a complex of Hindu temple ruins in Duy Phú commune, Quảng Nam Province, central Vietnam. The towers were raised by the kings of Champa, a Hindu-Cham kingdom that ruled central and southern Vietnam from the 2nd to 17th centuries. Construction at Mỹ Sơn spans roughly the 4th to 13th centuries. UNESCO listed the site as a World Heritage in 1999. The valley sits about 40 kilometres southwest of Hội An and 70 kilometres southwest of Da Nang, reached by road through farmland and low hills.
The towers are raised from a hard red brick whose mortar method has never been fully reconstructed; researchers believe the Cham used a plant resin, possibly from the dầu rái tree, to bond the bricks without visible joints. Many of the carved decorations are sandstone set against the brick. American air strikes in August 1969 destroyed Group A, including the tallest tower at the site. About twenty structures of an original seventy survive. Italian, Indian, and Polish restoration teams have stabilised the remaining groups since the 1980s.
Most visitors come on a half-day trip from Hội An, leaving at sunrise to reach the site before the heat and the buses. The site opens at 6 a.m.; admission includes a small museum near the gate and an electric shuttle to the tower groups. Cham apsara dance performances run twice daily at the Group G stage. The dry season runs February through August; the valley floods briefly in October and November storms. Photography is best in early morning light against the red brick.