— — the morning before the cloud sea breaks.
“The highest peak in Vietnam at 3,147 metres, on the Hoang Lien Son ridge above Sa Pa, in the country's far north. Climbers used to take three days through bamboo and rhododendron from the valley; since 2016, a long cable car carries most travellers within 600 steps of the summit pole. The cloud sea below, the trees mossed pale green, and a brass tripod at the top inscribed with the elevation. The cold at first light is real.
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Fansipan stands at 3,147.3 metres at the south-western end of the Hoang Lien Son range, in Lao Cai Province about 9 kilometres south-west of the town of Sa Pa. It is the highest peak in Vietnam and the highest in Indochina, which takes in Laos and Cambodia as well. The mountain sits inside Hoang Lien National Park, a protected area of around 30,000 hectares known for moss forest, dwarf bamboo and one of the highest concentrations of endemic plants in Vietnam. The H'Mong and Dao communities have lived in the foothills for generations.
The summit ridge holds a permanent cloud forest of pomu and rhododendron, with mosses thick on every branch. At dawn the inversion below the peak forms what Vietnamese hikers call the bien may, the cloud sea, a flat layer of fog over Sa Pa with the higher peaks pushing through. The temperature at the top drops to near freezing in winter, with occasional snow in January, rare for a peak this far south. The brass tripod at the summit was installed in 1905 by the French Indochinese geodetic survey.
Since 2016 the Sun World Fansipan Legend cable car has run from the Muong Hoa valley near Sa Pa to a station at about 3,000 metres on the south flank, a 6.3-kilometre line that the Guinness Book listed as the longest three-rope cable car in the world at its opening. The ride takes around fifteen minutes. From the upper station a series of about 600 stone steps and a short funicular climb the last hundred metres to the summit. A three-day walk up the old trail from Tram Ton remains open by permit.