— a coast city that wakes up gold.
“A working coastline that turned, in one generation, into a city of long beaches and bridges. The Han River cuts it in two and a dragon-shaped bridge breathes fire over it on Saturday nights. Marble Mountains south of town, Hai Van Pass to the north. Locals eat mi quang before the heat sets in. The light off the water in the morning is the part that stays.
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Da Nang sits on the central coast of Vietnam, between Hue to the north and Hoi An to the south, with the South China Sea to the east and the Truong Son range pressed in behind. Population is around 1.2 million, making it the country's fifth-largest city. The Han River runs through the centre, crossed by six bridges including the Dragon Bridge, which opened in 2013. The Marble Mountains, five limestone-and-marble hills riddled with Buddhist caves, sit just south of the airport.
My Khe Beach runs nearly thirty kilometres along the eastern edge of the city, named China Beach by American troops during the war. The water of Da Nang Bay is warm year through, with the calmest swimming from May to August before the autumn typhoon season arrives. South toward Hoi An the coastline opens out at Cua Dai. North, the Son Tra Peninsula juts into the sea, its forested ridge home to the red-shanked douc langur.
Most travellers reach Da Nang through its international airport, three kilometres from the city centre, with direct flights from Seoul, Tokyo, Bangkok, and Singapore. The Hai Van Pass climbs to nearly 500 metres on the road north to Hue, a passage worth the slow drive. Inside the city, the Museum of Cham Sculpture holds the largest collection of Cham stone carvings in the world, gathered from temple sites across the kingdom that ruled this coast from the fourth to the thirteenth century.