— — the green the war left behind.
“Espiritu Santo holds two different memories of the same coast. On the east, white sand at Champagne Beach and the freshwater blue holes that surface inland under banyan roots. On the west, the rusted relics of the American wartime base at Luganville, and the SS President Coolidge dropping off the reef. Coconut palms grew back over both. The reef forgot which decade was which.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
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Espiritu Santo is the largest of the roughly 80 islands that make up Vanuatu, covering about 3,955 square kilometres in the northern half of the archipelago. Its main town, Luganville, sits on the Segond Channel and was the second-largest Allied base in the Pacific during the Second World War. The interior rises into the Cumberland Range, with Mount Tabwemasana at 1,879 metres the highest point in the country. Pedro Fernandes de Queirós, the Portuguese navigator sailing for Spain, made European landfall here in 1606 and gave the island its name.
The east coast around Hog Harbour holds the island's two most photographed waters. Champagne Beach gets its name from the spring bubbles that rise through the sand at low tide. A little inland, freshwater blue holes — Nanda, Riri, and Matevulu — surface in the rainforest, fed by limestone aquifers and coloured a held, almost glassy blue. Offshore, the SS President Coolidge, a 199-metre American troopship sunk in 1942, rests in 21 to 70 metres of water and is one of the largest recreational wreck dives in the world.
Most visitors arrive at Santo-Pekoa International Airport, a short transfer from Luganville. Champagne Beach and the blue holes are about an hour north on the east-coast road, accessible by hired vehicle or organised day tour, with small village entry fees collected at the gate. The dry season runs roughly May to October; the wet season brings tropical cyclones and warmer water. Dive operators in Luganville run trips to the Coolidge year-round, with certification required for the deeper sections of the wreck.