— — the city the khans left behind in plaster and tile.
“An old caravan city on the floor of the Fergana Valley, ringed by cotton fields and the low Tian Shan. The last capital of an independent Uzbek khanate before the Russians arrived in 1876. What remains is the Khudayar Khan palace, the Juma Mosque with its forty-eight wooden columns, and a slow afternoon light that turns the painted ceilings amber. — from the studio
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Kokand sits on the western edge of the Fergana Valley in eastern Uzbekistan, about 230 kilometres southeast of Tashkent across the Kamchik Pass. From 1709 until 1876 it was the seat of the Khanate of Kokand, a Turkic state that at its height controlled much of the valley and reached north into present-day Kazakhstan. The Russian Empire annexed the city in 1876, ending the khanate. The Soviet-era Great Uzbek Highway and a branch of the Trans-Caspian Railway still meet here, and roughly 200,000 people live in the city today.
Three buildings carry the city's memory. The Khudayar Khan Palace, completed in 1873 by the last khan, presents a tiled façade roughly seventy metres wide above a steep ramp; only a fraction of the original 113 rooms survive as a regional museum. The Juma (Friday) Mosque, finished around 1812, holds a long aivan supported by ninety-eight carved wooden columns under a painted ceiling. The Norbut-biy Madrasa, from the 1790s, is the oldest of the surviving madrasas and still teaches.
Kokand is reached by a four-hour drive from Tashkent through the Kamchik Tunnel, or by domestic rail via Andijan. Summer in the valley is hot and dry, often above 35°C in July; spring and early autumn are gentler. The Khudayar Palace museum opens daily except Monday, with a small entrance fee. The city is the western anchor of the Fergana circuit that runs east through Rishtan's ceramics workshops to Margilan's silk ateliers and Andijan.