— — a brick minaret Genghis Khan let stand.
“A Silk Road city in central Uzbekistan, west of Samarkand and east of the Amu Darya. The old town is mostly the colour of old honey, brick on brick, much of it standing for more than a thousand years. The Kalyan Minaret has been the highest thing on the horizon since 1127; Genghis Khan, the story goes, reined his horse when he saw it and ordered it spared. The bricks still hold.
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Bukhara sits in the south-central oasis country of Uzbekistan, on the Zarafshan River about 270 kilometres west of Samarkand. Roughly 280,000 people live in the city. It was the capital of the Samanid Empire in the ninth and tenth centuries and a Silk Road waypoint between Persia, China, and the Indian subcontinent for more than a thousand years. UNESCO inscribed the Historic Centre of Bukhara on the World Heritage list in 1993, citing it as one of the most complete medieval urban fabrics in Central Asia.
The Samanid Mausoleum, completed between 892 and 943 CE, is one of the oldest standing brick monuments in Central Asia, a perfect cube of patterned brickwork built for the founder of the Samanid dynasty. The Kalyan Minaret followed in 1127, rising about 47 metres in tapered courses of brick. When Genghis Khan sacked Bukhara in 1220 he is said to have spared the minaret after gazing up at it; the rest of the city was burned. The minaret has held through nine centuries of sun, wind, and occasional earthquakes.
Bukhara International Airport sits five kilometres east of the centre, with direct flights from Tashkent and seasonal European links. The high-speed Afrosiyob train from Tashkent runs the route in about four hours, calling at Samarkand on the way. Most of the World Heritage core is walkable: Po-i-Kalyan, the Ark fortress, Lyabi-Hauz, and the covered trading domes form a connected loop of roughly two kilometres. April through early June and September through October are the comfortable seasons; July afternoons routinely exceed 38°C in the open courtyards.