— — the youngest desert on Earth.
“The desert that grew where a sea used to be. The Aral Sea began shrinking in the 1960s, when Soviet irrigation pulled the Amu Darya and Syr Darya away from it for cotton. By the 2010s most of the water was gone. What remains is salt flats, a few rusted fishing hulls at Moynaq, and dust storms that carry pesticide residue across Karakalpakstan.
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The Aralkum Desert covers roughly 60,000 square kilometres of seabed exposed since 1960, when Soviet engineers diverted the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers to irrigate cotton in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Most of it lies in Karakalpakstan, an autonomous republic of Uzbekistan, with a smaller share in Kazakhstan. The Aral Sea had been the fourth-largest lake in the world; by 2014 the eastern basin had dried completely. Aralkum is the most recently formed desert on Earth and one of the few large landforms whose creation falls inside a single human lifetime.
Moynaq was a fishing port of around 40,000 people, with a fleet and a cannery on the south shore. The water is now roughly 150 kilometres away. Around a dozen rusted ship hulls remain at the former harbour as an open-air memorial. Wind lifts salt and pesticide residue off the seabed and carries it across the steppe, and the German aid agency GIZ has helped plant saxaul shrubs across hundreds of thousands of hectares to slow the dust. The United Nations has called the loss of the sea one of the planet's worst ecological disasters.
Most visitors reach Aralkum from Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan, served by domestic flights from Tashkent. The drive from Nukus to Moynaq takes around three hours on a paved road; reaching the current shoreline requires a 4WD and a guide and takes most of a day. The Savitsky Museum in Nukus, which preserves a collection of Russian avant-garde art that was hidden in the desert during the Soviet period, is the natural pairing with the trip. April-May and September-October are the most workable seasons; midsummer pushes past 45 degrees Celsius.