— the dark shape the prairie cannot explain.
“The first sight of Devils Tower is the silhouette. Eight hundred sixty-seven feet of fluted rock standing alone on grassland, visible from the highway long before the turn-off. The Lakota call it Mato Tipila, Bear Lodge. President Roosevelt named it the country's first national monument in 1906. The shape registers before the scale does.
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Devils Tower rises 867 feet above the Belle Fourche River in Crook County, Wyoming, with a summit at 5,112 feet. Geologists describe it as an igneous intrusion of phonolite porphyry, exposed by the slow erosion of softer sedimentary rock around it. The hexagonal and pentagonal columns are among the tallest of their kind on earth. The closest town is Hulett, twelve miles northeast. The Black Hills lie east, the Bighorns west. The monument covers 1,347 acres of ponderosa pine and prairie grassland.
The columns formed roughly fifty million years ago when molten rock cooled inside a sedimentary host and contracted into vertical joints. Some columns measure ten feet across at the base and rise the full height of the tower. Climbers count the Durrance Route, first ascended in 1938, as a North American classic. The summit is a dome of grass and prickly pear roughly the size of a football field. Native nations including the Lakota, Cheyenne, Kiowa, and Arapaho hold the site sacred and ask climbers to stay off in June.
The monument is open year-round; the entrance station and visitor center keep seasonal hours. Vehicle entry is twenty-five dollars and good for seven days. The 1.3-mile Tower Trail circles the base through pine forest and talus and is the most-walked path in the park. The Joyner Ridge Trail to the north gives the cleanest silhouette view at sunset. A voluntary climbing closure runs through June in respect of Lakota and other tribal ceremonies. The nearest lodging is in Hulett or Sundance.