— — a single tower that holds the morning sun.
“Pingora rises clean off the floor of the Cirque of the Towers, a granite spire that climbers have been working since the nineteen-forties. The name is Shoshone, meaning roughly a high rock that cannot be reached. The South Buttress is the classic line and goes at a moderate grade, which is why the summit shows up in so many alpine logbooks. The light hits the east face first. — from the studio
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Pingora Peak is the signature spire of the Cirque of the Towers, rising to about 11,884 feet at the southern end of the Wind River Range in Wyoming. It sits in the Popo Agie Wilderness on the Shoshone National Forest, with Lonesome Lake at its base. The name is taken from a Shoshone word for a high, inaccessible rock. The standard approach is the Big Sandy trailhead, about nine miles in over Jackass Pass.
The tower is clean granite, part of the Archean batholith that forms the core of the Wind River Range. The rock has cooled and weathered into long, parallel cracks that take protection well, which is why Pingora became a teaching peak for a generation of American alpinists after Fred and Dorothy Beckey's first ascent in 1940. The South Buttress, a 5.8 line, is one of the most repeated alpine routes in the Mountain West.
The east face catches first sun. Because the spire stands free of the rest of the cirque rim, the morning light strikes the granite at a low angle for almost an hour before it reaches the basin below, and the rock turns a warm orange against the cold blue of the still-shaded west wall. The same effect runs in reverse at sunset, when the last light holds on the west face after the lake has gone grey.