— a long green floor the rain wrote.
“A 150-mile valley running from the Columbia south to the Calapooya Mountains, drained by a river that took two centuries to get the name. The end of the Oregon Trail and, since the 1960s, the place American Pinot Noir learned to do what it does in Burgundy. The light goes blue early in October and the harvest is in before the rain returns.
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The Willamette Valley runs roughly 150 miles south from Portland to Eugene, bounded by the Coast Range to the west and the Cascade Range to the east. The valley floor sits between 30 and 120 metres above sea level and was shaped by the Missoula Floods at the end of the last ice age. Roughly 70 percent of Oregon's population lives here, including Portland, Salem, and Eugene. The Willamette River, draining a basin of 11,500 square miles, joins the Columbia at the valley's north end.
The river is the spine. The Willamette flows north for 187 miles from the confluence of its Coast and Middle Forks near Eugene to its mouth at the Columbia in Portland. Willamette Falls at Oregon City, a basalt horseshoe roughly 40 feet high and 1,500 feet wide, was the largest waterfall by volume in the Pacific Northwest before its harness for industry and remains the second-largest by volume in the United States. The river was once a working highway for steamboats; today most of the traffic is recreational.
Pinot Noir defines the calendar. David Lett planted the first vines at Eyrie Vineyards in the Dundee Hills in 1965, betting the marine climate would behave like Burgundy. The Willamette Valley AVA was approved in 1983 and now contains more than 700 wineries across seven nested sub-AVAs. Harvest runs from mid-September through October, and the valley turns its annual gold under a thinning sky. The wet season returns by November; the rain that grows the grapes also fills the valley each winter.