— — a desert the colour of cold milk.
“The largest gypsum dunefield in the world, lying white and slow in a closed basin between two mountain ranges. White Sands holds 275 square miles of soft crystalline sand that stays cool underfoot even in July. The dunes move a few feet a year, and the field changes shape in slow motion. Bring sleds for the south end and water everywhere. The light at the back side of sunset is the part that stays with people.
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White Sands National Park sits in the Tularosa Basin of southern New Mexico, between the San Andres Mountains to the west and the Sacramentos to the east. The protected area covers about 712 square kilometres (275 square miles) and contains the world's largest gypsum dunefield. The site was set aside as a national monument by President Hoover in 1933 and redesignated as a national park by Congress in December 2019. The basin floor sits at roughly 1,216 metres, with the dune crests rising another fifteen metres above it.
The sand is gypsum (calcium sulphate dihydrate) rather than the silica that makes most desert dunes. Gypsum is rare in surface deposits because it dissolves in water; here the closed Tularosa Basin has no outlet, so the mineral washes out of the surrounding mountains, evaporates in the playa at Lake Lucero, and is blown northeast as fine crystalline grains. The colour stays bright white even in full sun, and the sand reflects so much heat that the dunes can feel cool underfoot in July when the air temperature passes thirty-five degrees Celsius.
The park entrance is on US-70, fifteen miles southwest of Alamogordo and about fifty-five east of Las Cruces. Dunes Drive is an eight-mile paved-then-gypsum road into the field, with pull-offs, picnic shelters, and trailheads. Sledding the dunes is the standard family activity; the visitor centre sells wax-able plastic discs. The park closes during White Sands Missile Range tests, usually a few hours at a time, listed at the gate. Best light comes the hour before sunset and the brief window after, when the field glows blue.