— — the grey the strait keeps after the fog lifts.
“A long island laid north to south in Puget Sound, reached by ferry from Mukilteo or by the green span of the Deception Pass bridge. Madrona trees lean out over the bluff at Ebey's Landing. In spring the grey whales come up the strait on their way to Alaska, close enough from shore that nobody on the bluff says much.
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Whidbey is the largest of the islands inside Washington's Puget Sound, running roughly 55 miles from Deception Pass at the north end to Clinton at the south. It sits in Island County and is reached by the Washington State Ferry from Mukilteo to Clinton in about twenty minutes, or by the two steel arches of the Deception Pass Bridge, opened in 1935 and spanning a tidal channel above Pass Lake. Coupeville, on Penn Cove, was founded in 1853 and is one of the oldest towns in the state.
The light on Whidbey belongs to the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, which keeps the island drier than Seattle across the water. Penn Cove fog comes in low off the eelgrass beds and burns off by mid-morning, leaving the grey-green water and the darker green of the Douglas firs along the bluff at Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve. The reserve, designated by Congress in 1978, was the first of its kind in the country and holds a working agricultural landscape of nineteenth-century farmsteads.
Grey whales pass close to the west shore of Whidbey from March through May on their northern migration from Baja California to the Bering Sea. A small resident group, the Sounders, has been returning to Saratoga Passage each spring since the 1990s to feed on ghost shrimp in the tidal flats off Hat Island. Penn Cove mussels, harvested commercially since 1975, are at their best in the cold months. The MusselFest in Coupeville falls the first weekend of March each year.