— a shipbuilder's mansion turning quiet on the water.
“Robert Moran built this house above Cascade Bay in 1909, after the doctors gave him a year to live. He outlived the prognosis by thirty-four. The mansion still stands at the head of the cove on Orcas Island, the Aeolian pipe organ still plays on Saturdays, and the long lawn runs down to the dock where the Bellingham boat used to come in.
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Rosario sits on East Sound, the long fjord that nearly splits Orcas Island in two, in the San Juan Islands of northwest Washington. The mansion was completed in 1909 by Robert Moran, a former mayor of Seattle and the shipbuilder behind the Moran Brothers yard that launched the USS Nebraska. He retired to Orcas after a heart diagnosis and spent the next decade building the estate from local timber and Honduran mahogany. The property became a resort in 1960 and is a National Historic District today.
The mansion is timber and concrete rather than stone, framed with old-growth Douglas fir cut from the Moran estate and clad in mahogany. The slate roof was shipped from Vermont. The centerpiece is a 1,972-pipe Aeolian organ installed in the music room, one of the largest residential organs ever built. Christopher Peacock, the resort's longtime music director, plays the organ on weekends and tells the history between numbers. The grounds include Moran's original boathouse, machine shop, and the lawn running down to the bay.
Orcas Island is reached by Washington State Ferry from Anacortes, about an hour and twenty minutes across the channel. From the ferry landing, the drive to Rosario is roughly thirteen miles by car. The mansion museum is open to the public free of charge during resort hours, and the Saturday organ concerts run seasonally. Moran State Park, with the Mount Constitution lookout at 2,409 feet, sits a short drive east and is worth pairing with a visit.