— — the red letters that come on against the rain.
“A long horizontal sign over the corner of Pike Street and Pike Place, the words Public Market Center in red glass tubing, a round clock hung below. It has been lit nearly every night since 1937. Sunset reads it from the west; the rain doubles it on the street. Most of the people standing on the median holding up a phone are making the same picture made every day for almost ninety years, the picture Seattle keeps making of itself.
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The Public Market Center neon sign hangs over the corner of Pike Street and Pike Place at the western edge of downtown Seattle, projecting from the Stewart House building above the Main Arcade of Pike Place Market. The market itself opened on August 17, 1907, but the sign and the round clock beneath it were installed in 1937 and have been lit nearly continuously since. The corner faces west across First Avenue toward Elliott Bay, so the red letters sit against an open sky and read for several blocks east on Pike Street. The intersection is the most-photographed spot in Seattle.
The tubing is filled with neon gas and bent into the words of the sign, glowing the characteristic red-orange of pure neon. Lit since 1937, the assembly stands among the longest-running neon installations on the West Coast. At twilight the high latitude of Seattle, at 47.6 degrees north, carries a long blue hour during which the sign reads its sharpest against the sky, especially in the wet half of the year when slate-coloured cloud deepens the red. On the wettest nights the asphalt of Pike Street doubles the sign in long red ribbons. In high summer the city's civil dusk lasts past 10 p.m. and the neon holds steady in a deep cobalt sky.
The sign survived the 1971 preservation fight that saved Pike Place Market from federal urban-renewal demolition, when Seattle voters passed Initiative 1, the Keep the Market measure, creating the Pike Place Market Historical District. The Pike Place Market Preservation and Development Authority, which still operates the buildings, has maintained the sign and clock as part of the district's protected fabric. The clock faces both Pike Street and First Avenue and has kept time for nearly nine decades. The neon is repaired by hand when a tube fails, with replacement tubing bent by traditional sign shops to match the original pattern.