— a black fin and the channel holds its breath.
“The strait between San Juan Island and Vancouver Island. The Southern Resident killer whales, three pods of fewer than eighty animals, feed here in the months the Chinook are running. The best place to see them from land is Lime Kiln Point on the west side of San Juan, where the lighthouse has stood since 1919 and the cliffs drop straight to the channel. A small research station above the rocks keeps watch through the summer. When the pods are nearby, word travels fast through the island.
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Haro Strait separates San Juan Island, Washington, from Vancouver Island, British Columbia, forming a roughly 30-kilometre section of the international boundary through the Salish Sea. The channel reaches depths greater than 300 metres in places, making it one of the deepest waterways in the inland sea. It is the principal travel corridor for the Southern Resident killer whales, three matrilineal pods designated J, K, and L, who follow returning Chinook salmon through the strait between late spring and early autumn. The west side of San Juan Island, with Lime Kiln Point State Park at its centre, is widely regarded as the best land-based vantage in North America for watching them pass.
Sound is how the Southern Residents live. Each pod has its own dialect of calls, studied since the 1970s by the Center for Whale Research, based on San Juan Island. A hydrophone in the strait feeds a public listening station at Lime Kiln Point; on quiet days visitors hear the pods underwater before they surface. The whales locate Chinook salmon by echolocation. Underwater noise from vessel traffic in Haro Strait, a busy shipping lane to the Port of Vancouver, has been identified by NOAA as one of the three primary threats to the population, which numbered 73 in the most recent census.
The pods are most reliably present in Haro Strait from late May through September, following the Fraser River Chinook run. June and July are the peak months at Lime Kiln Point, when the long Pacific Northwest evenings stretch the light past nine. In autumn the pods move offshore as the salmon decline. Winter sightings have grown rarer over the last decade, a shift the Center for Whale Research links to broader changes in salmon abundance. Lime Kiln Point State Park itself is open every day of the year; the lighthouse interpretive centre and the hydrophone listening room operate only in summer.