— close enough to feel the cold off the ice.
“Up Glacier Creek Road in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie. The trail climbs through old-growth hemlock and Douglas fir, crosses three braided creeks that get loud after a hot afternoon, and breaks out of the trees into the heather above. The Coleman Glacier hangs across the cirque close enough that the cold air comes off it in waves. Climbing parties heading up to Hogsback Camp pass through; day hikers go as far as the moraine and sit. The wildflowers peak the last week of July and the first two weeks of August.
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Heliotrope Ridge Trail begins at about 3,700 feet at the end of Glacier Creek Road, eight miles up from the town of Glacier on the Mount Baker Highway. The trail climbs roughly two thousand feet over two to three miles through stands of mountain hemlock and Pacific silver fir to a moraine overlook at the foot of the Coleman Glacier, the largest of Mount Baker's twelve named glaciers. The route is also the standard approach for climbers attempting the Coleman-Deming route to the 10,781-foot summit, so day hikers and roped parties share the lower trail through most of the summer.
Three braided crossings of Grouse Creek and its tributaries cross the trail, all glacier-fed and running grey with the rock flour the Coleman pulverises out of the ridge above. Flow rises through the afternoon on hot days; early-morning crossings are easier and safer than late-afternoon ones. A footlog usually spans the largest braid, but high water washes it out periodically and forces a wet ford. The streams gather into Glacier Creek and eventually the Middle Fork of the Nooksack River, which drains north into Bellingham Bay through the Lummi River delta.
The trail melts out in mid-July most years and stays clear until the first heavy storm of October. Wildflowers (glacier lilies, pink monkeyflower, lupine, paintbrush, and white phacelia) peak in the last week of July and the first two weeks of August. Climbing parties move through the route from May through September; the Coleman-Deming sees more summit attempts than any other route on the volcano. The Mount Baker Ski Area below recorded 1,140 inches of snowfall in the 1998-99 season, a world record for an official station, which is why the upper meadows come in so late.