— the open glacier at first light.
“The standard route up Baker, on the volcano's northwest side. Climbers leave Black Buttes Camp at two in the morning, rope up for the crevasses, and climb the Coleman in the cold hours so the snow stays firm. By first light the team is on the open glacier, three or four small figures against five square kilometres of broken white. Most summit by mid-morning and are back at camp before the afternoon sun softens the bridges. Nobody on the route is in a hurry to say much.
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The Coleman Glacier covers about five square kilometres on Mount Baker's northwest flank and is the largest of the volcano's twelve named glaciers. It feeds Glacier Creek and ultimately the Middle Fork of the Nooksack River. The standard mountaineering route, called the Coleman-Deming, begins at the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead on Glacier Creek Road in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, climbs through Black Buttes Camp at about 6,000 feet, and reaches the 10,781-foot summit by way of the saddle between Baker and Colfax Peak. Roped glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skill are required from the lower icefall on.
Mount Baker holds the world snowfall record for a single season at an official station, 1,140 inches at the Mount Baker Ski Area during 1998-99. The Coleman Glacier itself has been measured for mass balance by the USGS since 1990 and has lost surface area through recent decades, though it remains thick enough that crevasses cross the route's lower icefall and require roped travel. Pacific storms move in fast off the Strait of Juan de Fuca; a clear summit window in July or August can collapse in an afternoon, which is why most climbers start before sunrise.
The Coleman-Deming is rated PD (Peu Difficile) in the French alpine system but still demands roped glacier travel, crevasse-rescue skill, and a willingness to start at one or two in the morning. Most parties take two days from the trailhead: hike to Hogsback or Black Buttes Camp on day one, summit and descend on day two. The American Alpine Institute, based in Bellingham, and Mountain Madness, based in Seattle, both guide the route from May through September. A Northwest Forest Pass is required at the trailhead, and climbers self-register at the wilderness box.