— — a mountain that takes up half the sky.
“Mount Adams from the southeast: twelve thousand feet of stratovolcano, ten miles across at the base, with twelve glaciers running off the upper face. The viewpoint is Bird Creek Meadows, on the closed-area portion of the Yakama Reservation. From here the Klickitat and Mazama glaciers come into view, long tongues of ice running down the east and southeast slopes. The mountain holds light differently each hour: sharp blue at dawn, hot white at noon, a banked-fire pink at sunset. The meadow at six thousand feet sits in shadow long after the upper slopes are still in light. Access is permit-only, and recent seasons have been closed.
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Mount Adams stands at 12,281 feet, the second-highest peak in Washington and the third-highest in the Cascade Range after Rainier and Shasta. The mountain is a stratovolcano, ten miles across at the base, with twelve named glaciers ringing the summit cone. Its last significant eruption was about a thousand years ago, but minor lava flows have come from the summit area within the last few thousand years. Bird Creek Meadows, on the southeast slope at about 6,000 feet, sits inside the Yakama Indian Reservation on land confirmed by the 1855 Yakama Treaty. The view from the meadow places the Klickitat and Mazama glaciers directly above the visitor.
At 6,000 feet the air thins enough that a hiker from sea level notices it on the first climb. The Cascade Range is the wettest mountain range in the lower forty-eight, but the southeast side of Mount Adams sits in the rain shadow of the main ridge and runs drier than Rainier or Saint Helens. Afternoon clouds build over the summit through summer and dissipate by evening. From the meadow the sound is mostly creek water, marmot whistles, and wind in the subalpine fir. The mountain's bulk blocks half the sky. Adams is one of the few Cascade peaks the visitor sees end to end from one viewpoint.
Bird Creek Meadows are inside the Yakama Reservation's closed area, which the Yakama Nation administers separately from Mount Adams Wilderness on the Gifford Pinchot side. Access is by Yakama Nation use permit only and is seasonal at best; recent years have included multi-season closures. The drive in runs forest roads from the Glenwood area on the south, sometimes requiring high-clearance vehicles. There is no Forest Service fee for the meadow loop, but a Yakama Nation permit is required when the area is open. Confirm current access with the Yakama Nation Department of Natural Resources before driving in. Most visitors come in the August window when the area opens.