— — a memorial that holds the wind.
“A full-size replica of Stonehenge set on a bluff above the Columbia River. Sam Hill built it as the country's first memorial to soldiers killed in the First World War: thirteen men from Klickitat County. The wind comes up the gorge hard enough to lean on. The Columbia runs east-west below, the Oregon hills hold the other bank. Most days the place is nearly empty. People come, walk the circle, read the names, stand a while. The replica is concrete poured to the dimensions Stonehenge would have had when it was whole.
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The Maryhill Stonehenge stands on a basalt bluff above the Columbia River, in Klickitat County, southern Washington. Sam Hill commissioned it as a memorial to thirteen men from the county who died in the First World War; he laid the cornerstone on the Fourth of July, 1918, and the memorial was completed in 1929. It is a full-scale concrete replica of Stonehenge as Hill believed it would have appeared intact, not as the ruin in Wiltshire. The site sits about three miles east of the Maryhill Museum of Art, which Hill also founded, and looks across the river to the Oregon hills.
The replica is built from reinforced concrete, with the surfaces of the trilithons and standing stones cast in textured aggregate to suggest weathered stone. Hill, a Quaker peace activist, chose the design under the mistaken Edwardian-era belief that the original Stonehenge had been a site of human sacrifice. The point was to argue that the loss of young men in modern war was the same old sacrifice in another form. The altar stone in the centre bears a plaque to each of the thirteen Klickitat County dead. The memorial was the first dedicated to the World War I dead in the United States.
The site sits along Stonehenge Drive off State Route 14, about a hundred miles east of Portland and a hundred miles south of Yakima. The Maryhill Museum of Art owns and maintains the memorial; admission to Stonehenge is free and the grounds are open from dawn to dusk. The bluff is high desert: in summer the wind is constant and the temperature can run above 95°F; in winter the gorge funnels rain and snow. Most visitors come during the daylight hours of an east-west drive through the gorge, when the river light turns the concrete pillars gold.