— — a country road where every driver waves.
“Lopez is the flattest of the three big ferry-served San Juans and the one with farms instead of forest. The road from the ferry climbs a little, then runs through pasture and hay field for most of its length, past sheep, a small vineyard, a few old apple orchards. A custom of waving at oncoming traffic still holds. Most of the island is south-facing or west-facing, so the late light catches the fields and the low stone walls along Mud Bay and Hummel Lake Road. Lopez Village holds the few shops and a Saturday farmers market. The rest is quiet.
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Lopez Island sits in the San Juan Islands of northwest Washington, in San Juan County. It is about 30 square miles in area and home to roughly 2,500 permanent residents. The island is reached only by Washington State Ferries from Anacortes, a crossing of about forty minutes through Thatcher Pass and Decatur Pass. Lopez is the flattest of the three big San Juans (the others are San Juan and Orcas), with its highest point at Lopez Hill rising to 537 feet. The terrain has shaped the island's culture: farming has held since the late 1800s, and the road network supports cycling far better than the steeper Orcas to the north.
Lopez is quiet by design. The island has no chain stores and a population that thins outside the summer months. The custom of waving at every oncoming car holds well enough that the island's tourism office refers to it on its visitor map. Lopez Village holds the few shops, a Saturday farmers market through the summer, and one small grocery. The Shark Reef Sanctuary on the west side, the south-end trails at Iceberg Point, and the long curve of Spencer Spit on the east side are the three places visitors most often go. None of them carry entry fees, none of them carry much foot traffic outside July and August.
Washington State Ferries runs the route from Anacortes to Lopez through every season, with five to seven sailings most days and a forty-minute crossing time. Reservations open one month ahead and fill quickly in summer; Tuesday and Wednesday off-peak sailings are easiest. The island has about 50 miles of paved road, much of it gently rolling, which is why Lopez is the most-cycled of the San Juans. A few B&Bs and farm-stays cluster around Lopez Village; the south end is residential. The Saturday farmers market runs from May through early October on Lopez Village Green and is the consistent way to meet local growers.