— — twenty-eight miles of sand and wind.
“The beach runs the full length of the peninsula, from Cape Disappointment in the south to Leadbetter Point in the north. The town of Long Beach holds the entrance, with a half-mile cedar boardwalk and a long row of kite shops along the main street. Cars are permitted on much of the sand below the dune line. From above, in late summer light, the strand reads as a single pale ribbon, with the ocean on one side and the marram-grass dunes on the other. The Washington State International Kite Festival lands here in August and fills the sky for a week.
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Long Beach is the largest community on the Long Beach Peninsula, in Pacific County on the southwest Washington coast. The peninsula stretches roughly 28 miles north from the mouth of the Columbia River to Leadbetter Point, with the Pacific Ocean on the west and Willapa Bay on the east. The town reached its modern shape in the late nineteenth century as a destination for travelers from Portland by way of the Columbia. Long Beach is reached from the south by US-101 and the Astoria–Megler Bridge, with State Route 103 running the length of the peninsula. Cape Disappointment State Park and its 1856 lighthouse sit at the southern tip.
The wind on the Long Beach strand runs onshore from the west most of the year, steady enough that the town hosts the Washington State International Kite Festival every August. The festival has run since 1981 and brings several thousand fliers and visitors. Kite shops cluster along Pacific Avenue, and the World Kite Museum on Third Street holds one of the larger collections of kites in North America. The same west wind builds the dune line on the back of the beach and keeps the air clear of summer haze. By October the wind turns and carries the rain that defines the cool, maritime climate of the lower Washington coast.
State Route 103 reaches the peninsula from the south, by way of US-101 and the Astoria–Megler Bridge over the Columbia. Cars are permitted on the hard-packed sand below the dune line along most of the 28 miles, with the speed limit posted at 25 miles per hour. The Discovery Trail, an 8.2-mile paved path tracing the route of the Lewis and Clark expedition's 1805 walk to the ocean, runs from Ilwaco through Long Beach. The Pacific Ocean here stays cold through every season and the surf is generally rough. Lifeguards are not staffed; the National Weather Service issues sneaker-wave advisories through the autumn and winter.