— the week the high country lets go of its needles.
“In late September the subalpine larch above 6,500 feet in the North Cascades begins to turn. By the second week of October the high passes are gold for about ten days, then the wind takes the needles down. The pilgrimage has its own name in Seattle (larch march), and a small set of trails draws all of it: Heather-Maple Pass, Cutthroat, Blue Lake, the Enchantments. The North Cascades hold the densest larch population in the contiguous United States. Highway 20 closes by late November. The window does not wait.
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The North Cascades are the rugged mountains of north-central Washington, running from US-2's Stevens Pass north to the Canadian border. North Cascades National Park, established in 1968, protects about 504,654 acres at the range's centre, joined by Ross Lake National Recreation Area and Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. The Washington Pass area along State Route 20 is the heart of larch country: trails to Cutthroat Pass, the Heather-Maple Pass Loop, Blue Lake, and Easy Pass all reach subalpine larch stands between roughly 6,500 and 7,500 feet. Route 20 itself, the North Cascades Highway, closes for winter once snow makes plowing impractical, usually between mid-November and late November.
Subalpine larch (Larix lyallii) is one of the few deciduous conifers in the world. The needles turn from green to gold over a four-week period, peaking somewhere between October 5 and October 15 in most years; the window depends on the first hard frost and the autumn wind. Once the colour peaks, a single weather front can take most of the needles down in a day. Western larch (Larix occidentalis) grows lower on the eastern slopes and turns slightly later, into late October. The North Cascades hold the densest stands of subalpine larch in the contiguous United States.
The North Cascades sit at the meeting point of three air masses: wet Pacific air arriving from the west, cold continental air dropping from British Columbia, and dry inland air rising off the Columbia Plateau. The east-side larch country gets a fraction of the rain that falls on the western slopes; cloud lifts off the high country fast in October. First snow at Washington Pass (5,477 ft) usually arrives in mid- to late-October, often during peak colour. The combination of frost the night before, sun in the morning, and a fresh dusting of snow on the granite is what photographers and hikers come for.