— where the Quillayute finds the sea.
“First Beach runs west from the marina at La Push, a few hundred yards of dark sand and driftwood between the headland and the Quillayute River's mouth. James Island sits offshore. Akalat, in the Quileute language: the place of the dead. A stack of forested rock that has held this coast as long as anyone has. Second Beach is a short walk south through cedar. The town is small. The reservation is older than the road that gets you here.
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La Push sits at the mouth of the Quillayute River on the Pacific coast of Washington, about 14 miles west of Forks on State Route 110. The land is part of the Quileute Indian Reservation, a sovereign nation of roughly one square mile established by treaty in 1855 and confirmed by executive order in 1889. The Quileute language is one of two known languages of the Chimakuan family, and the only one still spoken. First Beach is the village waterfront; Second Beach is reached by a forested trail of about three-quarters of a mile from the highway; Third Beach is another two and a half miles south on the same trail system. The coastline north and south of the reservation is part of Olympic National Park's wilderness coast.
The Quillayute River is short, a little over five miles from the confluence of the Sol Duc and Bogachiel to the Pacific, but it carries the runoff of three rainforest watersheds out under the sea stacks at La Push. The mouth is a working harbour for the Quileute Marina. The Pacific tide here works through about a nine-foot range, and the coastal strip averages roughly 100 inches of rain a year. Native steelhead and several runs of salmon return up the system; the Quileute have fished these waters since long before treaty. The water is the colour of the rainforest it has just left.
Akalat, also known as James Island, stands offshore in the river's mouth, a forested stack of basalt and conglomerate that has held its shape against the Pacific for centuries. It is sacred to the Quileute and not open to visitors. The sea stacks south of the harbour rise out of the surf at Second and Third Beach in the same column-and-cap profile, the soft surrounding rock long since cut away. The Olympic coastal strip, a 73-mile wilderness shoreline added to the national park in 1953, runs north and south from here. Cedar takes hold on the tops because the rainforest is generous and the soil at the summit is thin and stable.