The Hoh runs about fifty-six miles from the glaciers on Mount Olympus to the Pacific, almost all of it through a forest that has never been logged. The water is glacier-pale, the colour green that only happens where rock flour meets cold rain. The Hall of Mosses sits beside it. Big-leaf maples wear seven kinds of moss at once, and Sitka spruce go up two hundred feet without a branch before they open. People who have walked the trail describe a sound the rain makes hitting that much canopy. It is not silence, and it is not noise.