— a week the alpine turns gold.
“A high crossing on the loop trail that climbs from Rainy Pass off the North Cascades Highway. For roughly two weeks each October the subalpine larches above the lake basins turn from green to gold to amber, then drop their needles for winter. Heather Pass itself sits around 6,300 feet, looking down to Lewis Lake and across to Black Peak. The hike is steady, not steep. Pictures from this corner of the state every autumn weekend look like the same place at the same hour because they are.
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Heather Pass sits at about 6,300 feet in the North Cascades of Washington, on the loop that climbs from Rainy Pass off State Route 20. The pass is part of the Lake Ann and Maple Pass loop, which runs roughly 7.2 miles with around 2,000 feet of gain from a trailhead at about 4,855 feet. The route crosses ground administered by the Okanogan-Wenatchee and Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forests and brushes the eastern edge of North Cascades National Park. Parking at Rainy Pass requires a Northwest Forest Pass or the equivalent federal recreation pass.
The reason this loop is so heavily walked the first three weekends of October is the subalpine larch, Larix lyallii, a deciduous conifer that turns gold for roughly two weeks and then sheds its needles. The species grows only at high elevation in the inland Pacific Northwest, generally between 6,000 and 8,000 feet, and the larch groves above Heather and Maple Passes are among the most accessible in Washington State. Peak colour usually arrives in the first ten days of October but shifts a week earlier or later depending on the summer that preceded it.
Heather Pass sits above the treeline where the air thins fast. From the Rainy Pass trailhead at about 4,855 feet, the loop gains nearly 2,000 feet in under three miles. The North Cascades catch the moisture rolling in off the Pacific and drop most of it on the western slopes, so the eastern side near Mazama sees a drier, colder edge of the same weather. October mornings on the pass often start below freezing, with high-pressure days behind them and the trail crowd already moving by sunrise.