— — the ferry, the dock, then a smaller pace.
“The largest town in the San Juans, on the east side of San Juan Island, about seventy-five minutes by ferry from Anacortes. The dock spits you out into a half-dozen streets of cedar storefronts, a chandlery, the Whale Museum, two bookshops. Orcas pass the west side of the island through summer. The marine labs of the University of Washington have worked here since 1903. Visitors stay a long weekend; islanders go to the mainland for things they can't get and come back on the late boat.
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Friday Harbor is the largest town in the San Juan Islands and the seat of San Juan County, Washington, on the east side of San Juan Island. The 2020 census recorded about 2,600 residents. The town sits on a sheltered harbour facing east toward Lopez Island across San Juan Channel. The Washington State Ferries route from Anacortes serves the dock several times a day in summer, with crossings of roughly 75 minutes. The Friday Harbor Laboratories of the University of Washington have operated on Point Caution at the north edge of town since 1903. The Whale Museum, on First Street, opened in 1979.
The waters around San Juan Island are part of the Salish Sea, the inland system that includes Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the Strait of Georgia. The Southern Resident orca community frequents the west side of the island through summer, hunting Chinook salmon along the kelp shelves between Lime Kiln Point and the open strait. Kelp forests, harbour seals, river otters, and Dall's porpoises share the water. Killer whales were captured here for aquariums through the 1970s; the practice ended after public opposition led in part by people working out of Friday Harbor itself.
The standard approach is the Washington State Ferry from Anacortes, with the walk-on option saving the wait of a vehicle reservation in peak season. Once on the island a car helps but is not required for staying in town; many visitors rent a bike or moped for the day. The Whale Museum on First Street charges a modest adult admission. Lime Kiln Point State Park on the west side, the best land-based whale-watching spot in the United States, requires a Discover Pass for parking. Most lodging is small inns, B&Bs, and a few harbour-front hotels.