— — the bay that lights up when you move.
“A small island east of the Puerto Rican mainland, reached by ferry from Ceiba or a short flight from San Juan. Most of the eastern half is the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, returned by the US Navy in 2003 after sixty years as a bombing range. Wild horses graze the road shoulders around Esperanza. Mosquito Bay holds the brightest bioluminescent water Guinness has measured anywhere.
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Vieques is a 33 km long island in the Spanish Virgin Islands group, about 13 km east of mainland Puerto Rico across the Vieques Sound. The municipality holds roughly 8,200 residents, most living in Isabel Segunda on the north coast or Esperanza on the south. The eastern two-thirds of the island is the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, managed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service since the Navy withdrew in 2003. The interior carries dry forest, mangrove, and the salt flats that ring Mosquito Bay.
Mosquito Bay, on the south side near Esperanza, holds the brightest concentration of bioluminescent dinoflagellates ever measured; Guinness World Records lists it as the brightest bio-bay on Earth. The light comes from Pyrodinium bahamense, a single-celled organism that flashes blue-green when disturbed. The bay's narrow mouth and surrounding mangroves trap nutrients and keep the population dense throughout the year. Swimming was prohibited in 2007 to protect the organism, and licensed kayak tours now operate only on moonless nights.
Public ferries from Ceiba on the Puerto Rican mainland serve Isabel Segunda and run by reservation through the Autoridad de Transporte Marítimo; the crossing takes around 45 minutes. Cape Air flies from San Juan and Ceiba into the small airport on the north shore. The wildlife refuge and most beaches reopen in stages as the US Navy continues unexploded-ordnance clearance; current closures are posted at the refuge visitor centre. Wild horses, descendants of escaped Paso Fino stock, roam most of the island freely.