— — three white spires above a Sunday parade.
“The white triple-spired church that faces Jackson Square is the oldest cathedral in continuous use in the United States. The first chapel on the site went up in 1718, the year the city was founded; the current building was finished in 1794 and remade in 1850 into the three-steepled silhouette that anchors every photograph of the French Quarter. Brass-band funerals pass under the central spire on weekday afternoons. The Mississippi runs three blocks behind the back wall.
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The Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Louis, King of France, faces Jackson Square in the Vieux Carré at the centre of New Orleans. A wooden parish church on the site was destroyed in the great hurricane of 1722; a second church burned in the city fire of 1788; the present brick-and-stucco building was completed in 1794 with funds left by the Spanish nobleman Don Andrés Almonester y Rojas. The architect James Gallier Sr. and Jacques Nicholas Bussière de Pouilly enlarged it in 1850 and added the three peaked steeples that give the cathedral its current silhouette. Pope Paul VI raised it to a minor basilica in 1964.
The 1850 remodelling under de Pouilly stripped most of what survived from 1794 and rebuilt the cathedral in a French Romantic-Revival mode. Three peaked octagonal towers replaced the earlier hexagonal central spire; the side walls were extended outward and the sanctuary lengthened toward Royal Street. Inside, a barrel-vaulted nave runs 134 feet from door to altar under a painted ceiling that depicts Louis IX, the cathedral's namesake, leaving for the Seventh Crusade. The stained-glass windows along the nave were installed by Erhard Stoltzenberg of Munich after the cathedral's 1918 centennial restoration.
The cathedral sits at 615 Père Antoine Alley, between the Cabildo and the Presbytère on Jackson Square, three blocks from the Mississippi River levee. The doors are open to visitors most weekdays from about 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., outside of Mass; entry is free and self-guided pamphlets are available inside the vestibule. Sunday Masses run morning and midday, and the cathedral hosts weddings, baptisms, and the city's St. Patrick's Day and Mardi Gras blessings. Quiet hours in the late morning are the easiest time to sit in the nave; check the parish website before travelling.