— a city built around its shade.
“Live oaks lean over the squares, Spanish moss hanging low enough to brush a shoulder. Twenty-two of them survived, set down by James Oglethorpe in 1733 and never paved over. The light moves slowly here, filtered green by August. Forsyth's fountain runs all year, and the river carries cargo past the cotton warehouses that became restaurants.
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Savannah sits on Georgia's Atlantic coast, about eighteen miles inland from Tybee Island, where the Savannah River widens toward the sea. James Oglethorpe founded the colony in 1733 and laid out a ward plan of public squares; twenty-two of the original twenty-four remain, framed by Greek Revival and Federal townhouses. The Historic District covers roughly two and a half square miles and was named a National Historic Landmark in 1966, among the largest such districts in the country at the time of its listing.
The air carries salt off the river and the slow weight of subtropical summer. Daily highs in July sit near ninety, and the live oaks, many over two centuries old, drape Spanish moss low enough to filter the sun before it reaches the brick. The species is not Spanish and not moss; Tillandsia usneoides is a bromeliad, kin to pineapple. It draws water from the air, which is why Savannah's humid coast suits it and the drier Piedmont does not.
The Historic District is walkable end to end in an afternoon, and the squares are the route. Forsyth Park anchors the south end with its 1858 cast-iron fountain; the riverfront sits ten blocks north along Bull Street. Bonaventure Cemetery is a fifteen-minute drive east, set on a bluff above the Wilmington River. The Telfair Academy on Telfair Square holds a collection of American Impressionists in a building from 1819, one of the oldest public art museums in the South.