— — the river that turned the explorers around.
“The longest free-flowing river contained inside a single state in the lower forty-eight. It rises in the Sawtooths and cuts a gorge deeper, in places, than the Grand Canyon, then runs on for four hundred miles without a dam. Lewis and Clark looked at the whitewater in 1805 and went around. The locals still call it the River of No Return.
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The Salmon River rises near Galena Summit in the Sawtooth Mountains and runs roughly 425 miles before joining the Snake River near Riggins. It is the longest undammed river in a single state in the contiguous United States. Below North Fork it carves a canyon that reaches more than 7,000 feet in places, deeper than the Grand Canyon at comparable cross-sections. Most of the middle and main stretches sit inside the Frank Church–River of No Return Wilderness, the largest contiguous wilderness in the lower forty-eight at 2.37 million acres.
The river holds Class III and IV whitewater through the Main and Middle Fork canyons, with named rapids — Velvet Falls, Pistol Creek, Tappan Falls — that float-trip outfitters have run since the 1930s. Chinook salmon and steelhead still make the eight-hundred-mile pull upriver from the Pacific by way of the Snake and Columbia, one of the longest anadromous runs left on the continent. The Nez Perce knew the canyon long before Lewis and Clark wrote it off in 1805 as too rough to descend by canoe.
Inside the wilderness there are no paved roads for more than a hundred miles in any direction. Outfitter camps run on solar and propane; mail still arrives at Mackay Bar and a handful of inholdings by jet boat or backcountry airstrip. At night the canyon walls hold the heat from the day and the river noise rises off the water in a steady, level sound. The closest town with a stoplight is Salmon, population around three thousand, an hour by gravel from the put-in at Corn Creek.