— — a river city built on seven hills and a long winter.
“The older, quieter half of the Twin Cities, set on bluffs above the Mississippi where it bends north. Summit Avenue runs five miles of Victorian houses up from the Cathedral. The Mississippi freezes hard most winters and the river road empties out by dusk. There is a clarity to the cold light here that doesn't exist a hundred miles south.
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Saint Paul is the capital of Minnesota and the seat of Ramsey County, set on the east bank of the Mississippi River across from Minneapolis. The two cities together form the core of a metropolitan region of about 3.7 million people. Saint Paul itself holds roughly 311,000 residents across 52 square miles. The city sits at the head of practical navigation on the upper Mississippi, the reason the territorial capital settled here in 1849 rather than upriver at the Falls of Saint Anthony.
The Cathedral of Saint Paul, completed in 1915, crowns Summit Hill above the river and is one of the largest cathedrals in the United States, with a copper dome rising 306 feet. Summit Avenue itself runs roughly 4.5 miles west from the cathedral and holds the longest stretch of preserved Victorian residential architecture in the country, including the F. Scott Fitzgerald rowhouse at 599 Summit. The Minnesota State Capitol, designed by Cass Gilbert and finished in 1905, sits just north of downtown in white Georgia marble.
Winter is the long season here. January averages around 14°F, and the Mississippi freezes solid through most of it. The Saint Paul Winter Carnival, held annually since 1886, was started as an answer to a New York reporter who called the city another Siberia. The carnival builds an ice palace in cold-enough years. Summer arrives late and short, with the Mississippi River boats running roughly Memorial Day through October, and the lakes and parks of the city alive for about four months.