— — the river the boathouses light at dusk.
“The river that runs the length of eastern Pennsylvania, from the anthracite hills near Pottsville to the Delaware at the south end of Philadelphia. The Dutch called it the hidden river because its mouth slips behind Hog Island. Along the lower miles, Boathouse Row strings small lit windows over the water at dusk, and the towpath carries runners past Fairmount in long, quiet lines.
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The Schuylkill River runs 217 km from its headwaters near Tuscarora in Schuylkill County to its confluence with the Delaware in south Philadelphia. It drains roughly 5,100 square kilometres of eastern Pennsylvania, gathering water from the anthracite coal region, the Reading farmland, and the suburban Main Line before reaching the city. The whole valley is designated by Congress as the Schuylkill River Greenways National Heritage Area, with a multi-use trail that now connects Pottsville and Philadelphia along most of the river's length.
Fairmount Water Works, the Greek-revival pump house below the Philadelphia Museum of Art, supplied the city's drinking water from 1815 to 1909 and made Philadelphia the first large American city with municipal water. The Fairmount Dam pools the river above the Water Works into the calm reach used by the rowing clubs. A century of coal-silt and industrial runoff left the water badly fouled by 1940; restoration through the Schuylkill River Project of 1947 onward made the lower river swimmable again at points.
Boathouse Row is a line of fifteen private rowing clubs on the east bank above the Fairmount Dam, several dating to the 1860s. The houses are outlined in low-voltage lighting that comes on at dusk and runs through the night, an installation maintained by the city. The Schuylkill River Trail along the west bank gives the long picture-postcard view. The Manayunk towpath, several kilometres upstream, follows the old Schuylkill Navigation canal past mill-town blocks and the Pencoyd railroad bridge.