— — a light the sea kept arguing with.
“A basalt sea-stack a mile off the headland north of Cannon Beach, with a small stone lighthouse on top that has not lit in seventy years. From Indian Beach the rock is a far black shape on the horizon, sometimes lost in mist. Locals call it Terrible Tilly. The waves at the cove come hard, and the trail above smells of spruce.
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Tillamook Rock Light sits on a basalt sea-stack about 1.2 miles off Tillamook Head, on the northern Oregon coast. It was first lit on January 21, 1881, and decommissioned in 1957 after seventy-six years of brutal weather damage. Indian Beach, in Ecola State Park, sits north of Cannon Beach in Clatsop County and is the closest public viewpoint from shore. The lighthouse stands 134 feet above the sea on a rock 100 feet across. It is now privately held; for a time after 1980 it served as a columbarium.
The water around Tillamook Rock has wrecked construction crews, cracked the lantern room with hurled stones, and stripped paint from the tower. Winter storms have driven Pacific swells over the top of the 134-foot light, more than thirteen stories above the sea. Indian Beach, the cove on the mainland looking out, is a small north-facing crescent in Ecola State Park, sheltered by Tillamook Head from the prevailing southwesterlies. Surfers favour it in summer; in winter the same shore takes the brunt of the open ocean.
The walk from the parking area at Indian Beach to the open view of the rock is short, about a quarter mile through Sitka spruce and salal, and ends with no railing, no plaque, no commerce. From here the lighthouse is a quiet far thing, often half-erased by the haze that rolls along this stretch of coast. The Oregon Coast Trail crosses Tillamook Head a few miles north, climbing through old-growth to the bluff where Lewis and Clark first sighted a beached whale in January 1806.