— — the sky writing itself down in white.
“Sauvie Island sits ten miles downstream of Portland, where the Willamette meets the Columbia and the floodplain opens into pasture, slough, and lake. From late autumn into early spring, thousands of snow geese drop in to feed on the wildlife area on the north end of the island, joined by cackling geese and sandhill cranes. They lift in pulses at first light and rest on the water at midday. A pull-off along Reeder Road is enough. You hear them before you see them.
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Sauvie Island is one of the largest river islands in the United States, about 26,000 acres of pasture, farmland, lakes, and sloughs at the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers. The northern half of the island, roughly 12,000 acres, is the Sauvie Island Wildlife Area, managed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife since 1947. The island sits ten miles downstream of downtown Portland and is reached by the Sauvie Island Bridge over Multnomah Channel. The land rises only a few feet above the surrounding water and is reshaped each year by winter flooding.
The migration begins in October as the first sandhill cranes arrive from Alaska and the high arctic, and builds through November and December as snow geese, cackling geese, and tundra swans drop in along the Pacific Flyway. Peak numbers fall in December and January, when tens of thousands of geese are on the island at once and pulses of several thousand snow geese lift together off the lakes at first light. By late February the birds are pushing north again; most are gone by mid-March. The wildlife area requires a daily or annual parking permit through the ODFW.
The wildlife area opens to walk-in access from mid-April through September; from October through mid-April many interior units close to protect wintering birds, and viewing shifts to the roads. Reeder Road runs the length of the island's east side along the Columbia; pull-offs near Coon Point and the Rentenaar Road dike are productive in the first hour of light. A daily parking permit is ten dollars as of 2026, and an annual permit is available through ODFW. Dogs must stay in the car at the viewing pull-offs during migration season.