— — a small main street and a fast green creek behind it.
“Phoenicia sits where Stony Clove Creek runs into the Esopus, in the middle of the Catskill Park in Ulster County. A short main street of clapboard buildings, a diner, a fly shop, and the creek running fast and green behind everything. On a summer Saturday, the inner tubes outnumber the cars; in October, the ridges around the village turn before the rest of the Catskills do. from the studio
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Phoenicia is a hamlet in the Town of Shandaken, in Ulster County, New York, inside the boundary of the Catskill Park. The village sits at the confluence of the Stony Clove Creek and the Esopus Creek, at an elevation of roughly 801 feet, between Mount Tremper to the east and the ridge of Slide Mountain to the south. State Route 28 runs through it as the main road between Kingston and the central Catskill peaks, and the Esopus is the main stem of the upper watershed that feeds the Ashokan Reservoir downstream.
The Esopus Creek is one of the most heavily fished trout streams in the eastern United States, managed by the state Department of Environmental Conservation and stocked annually with brown and rainbow trout. The same creek runs the tubing season from late June through Labor Day, when local outfitters in Phoenicia float visitors down the slower reaches between the village and Mount Tremper. Below Phoenicia the Esopus runs into the Ashokan Reservoir, which has supplied New York City's drinking water since 1915.
The Catskills colour earlier and at higher elevation than the rest of New York. Around Phoenicia, sugar maple and red maple turn in early October, followed by the oaks and beeches a week or two later, with peak colour generally falling between the 5th and the 20th of the month. The ridges around the village — Mount Tremper, Romer Mountain, and the long shoulder of Tremper Mountain — frame the colour as a half-bowl above the Esopus, which is part of why the leaf-peeping traffic on Route 28 thickens every weekend in October.