— a porch town facing a river full of castles.
“Alexandria Bay sits on the St. Lawrence where the river breaks into the Thousand Islands. The downtown is three blocks of porches, ice-cream windows, and tour-boat ticket booths facing the water. Out in the channel: Heart Island and Boldt Castle, begun in 1900 and stopped in 1904 when George Boldt's wife died. The boats run May through October. Off-season, the village closes its shutters and the river takes the channel back.
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Alexandria Bay sits on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River in Jefferson County, New York, where the river enters the archipelago known as the Thousand Islands. The village was founded in 1818 and named for Alexander LeRay, the son of French settler James LeRay de Chaumont, who held title to much of the surrounding land. Its year-round population is roughly a thousand, swelling many times over between Memorial Day and Columbus Day. The Thousand Islands Bridge crosses to Wellesley Island three miles east of the village.
The river here is the upper St. Lawrence, fed by Lake Ontario and carrying its outflow toward Montreal and the Atlantic. The Thousand Islands, 1,864 of them by the binational count, sit in the channel between Cape Vincent and Brockville. The current pulls hard through the narrows, the water clear enough that the granite shoals show through. Heart Island, half a mile from the village wharf, holds Boldt Castle, begun by Waldorf-Astoria proprietor George Boldt in 1900 and halted in 1904 on the death of his wife Louise.
The tour-boat season runs from early May through mid-October. Uncle Sam Boat Tours and Clayton Island Tours operate from the village wharf with regular runs to Boldt Castle on Heart Island and Singer Castle on Dark Island. Admission to Boldt Castle, restored by the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority since 1977, is currently around fifteen dollars. Walking the village's three downtown blocks takes ten minutes; doing it slowly, with a hand-dipped ice cream and the river breeze, takes the rest of the afternoon.