— — the river that walks home from the park.
“The Yellowstone leaves the park at Gardiner and runs north fifty miles through Paradise Valley before it bends east at Livingston. The Absarokas hold the east wall, the Gallatins the west, and Emigrant Peak rises eleven thousand feet between them. It is the longest free-flowing river in the contiguous United States, with no dam from the headwaters to its meeting with the Missouri.
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Paradise Valley is the fifty-mile stretch of the Yellowstone River between Gardiner, at Yellowstone National Park's North Entrance, and Livingston, where the river bends east toward the plains. U.S. 89 runs the west side; East River Road runs the quieter east. The valley sits between the Absaroka Range to the east and the Gallatin Range to the west, with Emigrant Peak at 10,915 feet as its anchor. The Yellowstone is the longest free-flowing river in the contiguous United States.
The Yellowstone runs unobstructed from its headwaters in the Teton Wilderness through the park, across Paradise Valley, and on to its confluence with the Missouri in North Dakota: 692 miles with no mainstem dam. Its blue-ribbon trout water through the valley holds wild rainbows, browns, and Yellowstone cutthroat. Runoff peaks in June and the river clears by mid-July; by September the famous Mother's Day caddis is a memory and the fall blue-winged olives are on. Drift boats put in at Mallard's Rest and Loch Leven.
The valley reads differently month to month. Spring brings runoff and the Mother's Day caddis hatch in early May. By July the river clears and Pale Morning Dun hatches anchor the dry-fly summer. September lights the cottonwoods along the banks and the blue-winged olives come on in afternoon. Winter pins fog low against the Absarokas; the wind through the gap at Livingston is famous and steady, and the valley empties of all but locals from November through March.