— the road that keeps folding back on itself.
“The climb out of Rock Creek Canyon stacks switchback on switchback, gaining nearly a mile of elevation in under twenty road miles. US 212 opens around Memorial Day and closes again with the first hard snow. Drivers pull off at every turnout. Nobody passes anyone here. The pavement narrows, the spruce shortens, and the air thins until the tundra of the Beartooth Plateau begins.
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The Quad Creek switchbacks are the most photographed stretch of the Beartooth Highway, the section of US 212 that climbs out of Rock Creek Canyon above Red Lodge, Montana. The road gains roughly 5,000 feet of elevation in about twenty miles, crossing the Beartooth Plateau toward Beartooth Pass at 10,947 feet before descending into Wyoming and the northeast entrance of Yellowstone. Charles Kuralt called it the most beautiful drive in America.
The switchbacks lift drivers from a montane forest of lodgepole and spruce into true alpine tundra in the space of forty minutes. Above 10,000 feet the trees thin to krummholz and the wildflowers shrink to ground level. Snow lies in the lee of the higher curves into July. Even on August afternoons the wind off the plateau pushes temperatures into the forties. Most visitors underdress.
The road is seasonal. It opens around the Friday of Memorial Day weekend, weather permitting, and closes again in mid-October once the first sustained snow makes the high curves untenable. There are no services between Red Lodge and Cooke City, a stretch of about 65 miles. Tow trucks do not come up here in shoulder season. Drivers should fuel in Red Lodge and carry water.