— — a sea where there used to be a sea.
“The lake fills more than a hundred miles of dry coulee country east of Jordan. The land around Hell Creek is bone country — the Cretaceous formation underfoot is the one that gives up tyrannosaur skeletons every summer. From the bluff above the marina the reservoir reads more like an inland sea than a river, which is what it used to be.
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Fort Peck Lake holds back the Missouri River behind Fort Peck Dam, finished in 1940 as a Public Works Administration project and still one of the largest hydraulically filled dams in the world. The reservoir runs about 134 miles end to end through eastern Montana, with more than fifteen hundred miles of shoreline carved into badlands and prairie coulee. Hell Creek State Park sits on a bluff on the south shore, twenty-six miles north of Jordan, and is the common put-in for the lake's eastern arm.
The bluffs around Hell Creek expose the Hell Creek Formation, a late-Cretaceous sequence of mudstone and sandstone laid down sixty-six million years ago at the edge of the Western Interior Seaway. The formation is the type locality for Tyrannosaurus rex, first described from a partial skeleton collected by Barnum Brown in 1902 a few miles from the present lake. Triceratops, Edmontosaurus, and the impact layer that ends the Cretaceous all sit in the same exposed sections that the reservoir has been quietly trimming back since 1940.
Garfield County, where the park sits, holds about a thousand people across more than four thousand square miles, making it one of the emptiest counties in the lower forty-eight. Cell service drops out well before the gravel road off Route 200 reaches the bluff. The wind off the lake carries no other engine sound most of the year; the marina is busy on summer weekends, then closes down. Pronghorn, sage grouse, and the occasional paddlefisher are the steady company through the long shoulder seasons.