— — the river the eagles still own.
“The stretch the Corps of Discovery floated in 1805, still mostly the way they found it. White sandstone cliffs, cottonwood bottoms, and the slow shoulders of the breaks. Bald eagles winter here in numbers, then thin out as the ice goes. Float parties put in at Coal Banks Landing and take out at Judith Landing or the James Kipp Recreation Area, a few days on water that has not been dammed.
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The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument runs 149 miles of free-flowing river through central Montana, from Fort Benton to the Fred Robinson Bridge. Designated by President Clinton in January 2001, the monument protects roughly 375,000 acres of breaks country: eroded sandstone, badlands, and cottonwood bottoms managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Lewis and Clark camped these reaches in May and June of 1805 and noted the White Cliffs as the most picturesque scene of the journey.
There are no towns on this river for long stretches. The takeouts at Coal Banks Landing, Judith Landing, and the James Kipp Recreation Area sit forty or sixty road miles apart, much of it gravel. Float parties of two or three boats see deer at the bank, golden eagles overhead, and the occasional rancher checking a pump. The Wild and Scenic designation, applied in 1976, keeps the corridor undeveloped: no powerlines, no dams between Fort Benton and the Robinson Bridge.
Bald eagles concentrate along the breaks through winter, drawn by open water below the riffles and by carrion on the benches above the river. The Lewistown Field Office of the BLM has tracked nesting territories along the corridor for decades, and pairs return to the same cottonwood snags. Spring brings the first floaters and the green-up of the bottoms; by July the bench grass has gone gold and the river runs low and clear. The eagles thin north toward the Coteau in summer.