— a city built on the only waterfall the river makes.
“The Mississippi runs through Minneapolis the way a spine runs through a body. At St. Anthony Falls the river drops and the old flour mills lean over the water, the Stone Arch Bridge curving across in pale limestone. West of downtown the Chain of Lakes holds canoes in summer and skaters in winter. The Walker sits above it all, the Spoonbridge cherry holding red against November sky.
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Minneapolis sits on the west bank of the upper Mississippi River in Hennepin County, Minnesota, joined to its twin Saint Paul to form the metropolitan core of the Upper Midwest. The city holds roughly 430,000 residents within 145 square kilometres. St. Anthony Falls, the only natural waterfall on the entire Mississippi, powered the flour mills that built the city in the 1870s and 1880s — Pillsbury and General Mills both began on these banks. The Chain of Lakes lies a kilometre west of downtown.
The city is laid over water. St. Anthony Falls drops about 15 metres in a stepped cascade and concrete apron; the Stone Arch Bridge, opened in 1883 for James J. Hill's Great Northern Railway, crosses just downstream in twenty-three limestone arches. West of the river the Chain of Lakes — Bde Maka Ska, Lake of the Isles, Lake Harriet, Cedar — connect through dredged channels paddled by canoe in summer. Minnehaha Creek runs south and falls 16 metres at Minnehaha Park.
The city lives by the calendar. From mid-November through March the lakes freeze hard enough for plowed skating loops at Lake of the Isles and pond-hockey rinks at Lake Nokomis; the Saint Paul Winter Carnival, running since 1886, anchors late January. May through September brings the canoe season and the Tuesday-night sailing fleet on Lake Harriet. October colour holds along the river bluffs for about ten days, usually in the second week.