— — the morning above the cloudline at Haleakalā.
“The second-largest Hawaiian island, set between Molokaʻi and the Big Island. The slope of Haleakalā rises from the south shore to a summit above the cloudline, where the sunrise reads almost lunar. To the east, the Road to Hāna threads sixty miles of waterfalls and one-lane bridges. To the west, Lahaina is being rebuilt slowly, with care.
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Maui is the second-largest of the Hawaiian Islands at about 1,883 square kilometres, formed by two volcanoes (the older West Maui Mountains and the younger Haleakalā in the east) joined by a low isthmus. Haleakalā reaches 3,055 metres (10,023 feet) above sea level and forms the summit of Haleakalā National Park. The county seat is Wailuku; Kahului holds the main commercial airport. The historic whaling town of Lahaina, capital of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi until 1845, was largely destroyed by wildfire on 8 August 2023 and is being rebuilt block by block.
Sunrise at the Haleakalā summit reads almost lunar in clear weather: the cloudline sits below the rim of the crater and first light turns the cinder a deep red. The National Park Service has required a timed reservation for any vehicle arriving at the summit between 3 a.m. and 7 a.m. since 2017, capped at about 150 vehicles, to keep the lots from overflowing. The road from sea level to the summit climbs about 10,000 feet in roughly 38 miles, one of the steepest paved ascents in the world.
The Hāna Highway runs roughly 64 miles along the windward east coast, crossing 59 bridges (46 of them one-lane) and threading more than 600 curves between Kahului and Hāna town. The road follows the line where the volcano meets the Pacific, past Twin Falls, Waikamoi Ridge, and the black-sand beach at Waiʻanapanapa State Park. The drive itself, more than the destination, is what locals describe as the day's reward; most full-loop drivers turn back at Kīpahulu after the Pools of ʻOheʻo.