— — an island the ferry sets the pace of.
“The island lies seven miles south of Cape Cod across Vineyard Sound, reached only by ferry. Edgartown holds the white-clapboard captain's houses; Oak Bluffs holds the gingerbread cottages painted in candy colours since the Methodist camp meetings of the 1860s. Aquinnah's clay cliffs run red, orange, and white at the western end. Sailboats hold the harbour. In September the crowds leave and the light turns.
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Martha's Vineyard sits seven miles off the south coast of Cape Cod in Dukes County, Massachusetts, separated from the mainland by Vineyard Sound. The island covers 96 square miles and holds six towns: Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, Tisbury (Vineyard Haven), West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah. Permanent population is around 20,000 and rises past 100,000 in summer. The Steamship Authority ferry from Woods Hole, the only public car ferry to the island, has run under that name since 1960 and is the lifeline that sets the island's daily pace.
The Aquinnah Cliffs at the island's western end run 150 feet high in bands of red, orange, white, and grey clay laid down over 100 million years. The Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head/Aquinnah has held the land continuously, and the cliffs became a National Natural Landmark in 1966. The clay erodes faster than rock; the cliff face retreats about a foot a year. Below the cliffs the beach holds rounded clay nodules in the same colours, washed smooth by the tide each season.
The island is reached by ferry. The Steamship Authority runs car and passenger service from Woods Hole on Cape Cod to Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs through every season, with reservations required for cars in summer from May through October. Passenger-only fast ferries run from Hyannis, New Bedford, and Falmouth seasonally. Edgartown and Oak Bluffs hold most of the restaurants, shops, and historic district. Chilmark and Aquinnah at the western end stay quieter, with rolling moors and the South Road farms that have worked the same fields since the 18th century.