— the long brass note after midnight.
“Thirteen blocks of the French Quarter, running from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue, named for the House of Bourbon that ruled France when the grid was laid in 1721. By day, the street is wrought iron and shutters, a few jazz horns warming up behind cracked doors. By night, the section between Iberville and St. Ann turns to brass, neon, and crowd. The quieter blocks east of St. Ann hold residences, a Catholic convent, and the gas-lamp dark of pre-jazz New Orleans.
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Bourbon Street runs thirteen blocks through the French Quarter of New Orleans, parallel to the Mississippi River, between Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue. The street was laid out in 1721 by the French engineer Adrien de Pauger and named for the ruling House of Bourbon, not the whiskey. The Quarter sits on the high ground of the natural levee, which is why it survived the 1788 and 1794 fires and the 2005 flooding better than newer neighbourhoods. Roughly thirteen million visitors pass through the Quarter each year.
Most of what looks French along Bourbon Street is in fact Spanish. The two great fires of 1788 and 1794 destroyed the original French colonial buildings, and the rebuilding happened under Spanish rule. The wrought-iron galleries, courtyard layouts, and stucco-over-brick walls date from that period. Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop at 941 Bourbon, built before 1772, is one of the few structures that survived both fires and is among the oldest buildings still standing in the United States.
Bourbon Street runs every day of the year. The west end, between Canal and St. Ann, holds the bars and music clubs; the east end, past St. Ann, returns to residential calm. Mardi Gras peaks on Fat Tuesday, six weeks before Easter, and the Jazz and Heritage Festival takes the city the last weekend of April and the first of May. The street closes to vehicle traffic in the evening on the western blocks.