— — the country the train still slows for.
“A small Pennsylvania city ringed by farmland, with barns, silos, and the slow rhythm of Amish life still working the same fields. Lancaster was briefly the capital of the United States in September 1777, and the Central Market in its square has been trading since the 1730s. The city itself is brick and small, with a craft and food scene that has grown around the old county seat.
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Lancaster is the county seat of Lancaster County in southeastern Pennsylvania, about 130 kilometres west of Philadelphia. The city was founded in 1729 and named for Lancaster, England, by its first settler John Wright. On September 27, 1777, the Continental Congress met here for a single day, making Lancaster the capital of the United States. The surrounding county is home to one of the largest Amish populations in North America, with roughly 45,000 people across the townships. Central Market, on Penn Square, has operated continuously since the 1730s and is the country's oldest farmers' market.
The city plan is a four-square grid laid out in 1730 by James Hamilton, with Penn Square at its centre. Brick row houses from the late 18th and 19th centuries line the streets behind the square. The Fulton Theatre, opened in 1852 as Fulton Hall, is one of the oldest continuously operating theatres in the country and is built on the foundation of the colonial jail. Wheatland, the home of President James Buchanan from 1848 until his death in 1868, stands on the western edge of the city and is open as a historic house museum.
Central Market opens Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday mornings; the stalls sell Pennsylvania Dutch staples such as shoofly pie, scrapple, chow-chow, and root beer, alongside produce from county farms. The Amish settlements east of the city, around Bird-in-Hand and Intercourse, are best reached by car along Route 340. Lancaster's downtown is walkable; the Fulton Theatre, the Demuth Museum, and Lancaster Central Park are within twenty minutes on foot. Amtrak's Keystone line reaches Lancaster Station from Philadelphia in about 75 minutes.