— — the river that flows north to the sea.
“The St. Johns runs the wrong way here, north toward the Atlantic, past container cranes and oak shade and the long bridges that stitch the city together. Downtown sits on the bend, with the river wider than a small bay. People take the water taxi to dinner. The beaches are twenty minutes east, flat and warm and easy to reach.
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Jacksonville sits at the mouth of the St. Johns River in northeast Florida, twenty miles north of St. Augustine and about an hour from the Georgia line. It is the largest city in the contiguous United States by land area, roughly 875 square miles, the result of a 1968 consolidation with surrounding Duval County. The downtown core bends around the river, with the Atlantic beaches a short drive east and a deep-water port that has anchored the city's economy since the steamship era.
The St. Johns is one of the few rivers in North America that flows north, draining 310 miles from marshland near Vero Beach to the Atlantic just east of downtown. The current is slow, the gradient under one inch per mile. Manatees winter in the warmer side channels and dolphins are regular below the Main Street Bridge. The river is wide enough through Jacksonville that locals call its inland reach 'the river,' and the offshore reach simply 'the water.'
Jacksonville is reached most easily through JAX, the international airport about fifteen miles north of downtown. Beaches Town Center at Neptune Beach holds the densest cluster of restaurants on the coast. The Cummer Museum on Riverside Avenue keeps a notable garden running down to the river, free on Tuesday evenings. EverBank Stadium hosts the Jaguars and the annual Florida–Georgia game in late October or early November, when the city fills and hotel rates double for a single weekend.