— — the water comes up already warm.
“The smallest national park in the country, wrapped around a town and a row of red-brick bathhouses. Forty-seven springs rise out of Hot Springs Mountain at 143 degrees, the same temperature they were when the federal reservation was set aside in 1832. Buckstaff has been running baths since 1912. The water is the park.
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Hot Springs National Park covers about 5,550 acres in the Ouachita Mountains of central Arkansas, making it the smallest of the country's national parks. Federal protection began in 1832, when Congress set aside the Hot Springs Reservation, the first federally protected land in United States history, four decades before Yellowstone. It was redesignated as a national park in 1921. The park wraps around the small city of Hot Springs, with Hot Springs Mountain to the east, West Mountain to the west, and the historic Bathhouse Row on Central Avenue stitching them together.
The forty-seven hot springs of Hot Springs Mountain release roughly 700,000 gallons a day at an average temperature of 143°F (62°C). The water fell as rain on the surrounding slopes about 4,400 years ago, sank along faults to a depth of perhaps a mile, warmed against deep rock, and rose back along a separate fracture system. It carries a soft mineral load of silica, calcium, and magnesium, but no sulphur, so it does not smell. The National Park Service caps and pipes most of the flow to the bathhouses and to public jug fountains along Central Avenue.
Two of the eight historic bathhouses on Central Avenue still operate as working bathhouses. Buckstaff has been continuously open since 1912 and offers the traditional thermal bath, scrub, and massage circuit; Quapaw opened in 1922 and runs four modern thermal pools at varied temperatures. The Fordyce Bathhouse next door is now the park's visitor centre, preserved in its 1915 marble and stained-glass splendour. Hot Springs Mountain Tower above the ridge gives a long view across the Ouachitas. There is no entrance fee, and bathhouse appointments are recommended at both Buckstaff and Quapaw.