— — a brick fort the sea agreed to leave alone.
“Seven small keys at the western end of the Florida Reef, only reachable by boat or seaplane. The largest, Garden Key, carries Fort Jefferson, a hexagonal brick fortress of sixteen million bricks, never finished and never engaged in war. The water around it is the colour the Caribbean uses when nothing else is in the frame.
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Dry Tortugas National Park covers about 261 square kilometres of sea and seven small coral-and-sand keys at the western end of the Florida Reef, roughly 110 kilometres west of Key West. The islands were named Las Tortugas by Juan Ponce de León in 1513 for the sea turtles his crew took on board; later cartographers added Dry to warn navigators that none of the keys hold fresh water. Congress designated the area a national park in 1992, expanding the earlier Fort Jefferson National Monument. Access is by ferry or seaplane only.
Fort Jefferson occupies most of Garden Key. The six-sided brick fortress stands about 15 metres tall and was designed to mount 420 guns over three tiers. Construction began in 1846 and continued for some thirty years, drawing on roughly 16 million bricks shipped from the Florida and Alabama coasts, making it the largest masonry structure in the Americas. The fort was never completed and never engaged in battle. During the Civil War it held Union prisoners, the most famous of whom was Dr. Samuel Mudd, convicted in the Lincoln assassination conspiracy.
The reefs around Garden Key and Loggerhead Key are among the healthiest in the Florida Reef tract, in part because the islands are too remote for day-trip traffic. Snorkellers off the fort's old coaling-dock pilings find brain coral, sea fans, and large parrotfish in three to four metres of clear water. Bush Key, attached to Garden Key by a sandbar in most years, is closed every spring to protect the largest nesting colony of sooty terns in the contiguous United States, with up to 80,000 birds in a season.