— — a column the prairie remembered out of the ground.
“A column of phonolite porphyry rising 867 feet above the Belle Fourche River, the first place the United States set aside as a national monument, in 1906. The Lakota call it Mato Tipila, Bear Lodge. The vertical columns photograph as flutings; climbers honour a voluntary closure each June. The grasslands at its base hold a prairie dog town that has not moved in a century.
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Devils Tower rises 867 feet from its base to a flat summit roughly 1.5 acres across, in northeastern Wyoming on the western edge of the Black Hills above the Belle Fourche River. President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed it the first United States national monument on 24 September 1906 under the newly passed Antiquities Act. Several Northern Plains tribes (Lakota, Cheyenne, Kiowa, Crow, and Arapaho among them) carry older names for it, Mato Tipila or Bear Lodge among the best known. The monument covers about 1,347 acres of ponderosa pine and prairie.
The Tower is a column of phonolite porphyry, an igneous rock that cooled slowly underground roughly 50 million years ago and contracted into the hexagonal columns visible from the base. The surrounding sedimentary layers, including red Spearfish Formation siltstone, eroded away over the last several million years and left the harder intrusion standing. Geologists still debate whether the column was a laccolith, a volcanic plug, or a maar diatreme. The columns reach four to six feet across and run nearly the full vertical face of the rock.
Each June the National Park Service asks climbers to honour a voluntary closure of the Tower out of respect for Northern Plains ceremonies that take place around the summer solstice. Roughly 85 percent of climbers comply, and the rock stays mostly silent for the month. The monument also hosts a colony of black-tailed prairie dogs along the Belle Fourche road, visible directly from the main parking area. The voluntary closure has been in place since 1995, the result of an agreement among climbers, tribes, and the Park Service.