— the river that still runs free.
“Three hundred miles of water from the western Catskills down to the bay. The only major river on the eastern seaboard left undammed along its main stem, which is why the shad still climb it and the eagles still winter along the upper reaches. Trenton on one side, Morrisville on the other. Washington crossed it once, in the snow.
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The Delaware rises in two branches in the western Catskills of New York and runs about 330 miles to the head of Delaware Bay, draining a basin of roughly 13,500 square miles across four states. It forms the New York–Pennsylvania, New Jersey–Pennsylvania, and New Jersey–Delaware borders along the way, threading the Delaware Water Gap and passing Trenton, Philadelphia, and Wilmington before tidewater. The Upper Delaware and the Middle Delaware corridors are administered by the National Park Service as Wild and Scenic River units.
It is the longest undammed river east of the Mississippi on its main stem, and that shapes everything downstream. American shad still run up from the Atlantic each spring, and bald eagles winter in numbers along the upper reaches above Hancock and Narrowsburg. Striped bass spawn in the tidal stretch near Trenton. The Delaware River Basin Commission has coordinated flow and water-quality management among four states and the federal government since 1961, and the river supplies drinking water to roughly 13 million people.
On the night of December 25, 1776, George Washington crossed the river from Pennsylvania to surprise the Hessian garrison at Trenton the following morning, a turn that helped keep the Continental Army together through that winter. Washington Crossing Historic Park preserves the launch site, and a reenactment is held there each Christmas. The river later carried anthracite coal, lumber rafts out of the Catskills, and canal trade between the Lehigh Valley and the port of Bristol. Most of that industry is gone; the water runs cleaner than it has in a century.